|Softeners and Conditionners|
|Softeners and Conditionners are the same except that the first has softening resin and the second has a mix of softening and tannin (or other) resin. Both operate in the same way except that with a softener you can count the gallons of water used and regenerate after a set number, while the second has to be regenerated every 4 days what with a lower salt setting. Here are a few suggestions:|
|1) Keep the system clock on time. This ensures that your softener will regenerate late night while no one is using water.
2) Don't be alarmed if you notice the "nighty toilet" is a little stained. That's the one you use after 2:00 am while the softener could be regenerating, hence no treated water is available, only the raw water, hence that toilet will stain a little. Consider changing the regeneration time from the usual default factory setting of 2:00AM to a more conveneient time that you know treated water is not required for at least two hours.
3) The salt quality is also important. Pure white salt nuggets are the best quality because it contains no impurites. Salt having a glassy crystal form contains some blackened rocks that are actually sand and dirt that slowly accumulate at the bottom of the salt bassin and can be asperated when the unit draws brine, thus clogging the injector that then lowers the actual salt consumption that lowers the system capacity that can ultimately result in system failure.
4) Within two years the salt in the salt basin can form a salt bridge that is a very dense form of salt that does not permit water to enter it. This means less water is added to the bassin before the float stops the fill. Less water means less salt dossage per regeneration and in time can cause system failure.
5) In order to prevent the situations of items 3 and 4, we recommend that every two years, usually at spring time, you stop adding salt to the system. In the weeks that follow the salt level will decrease until no more salt is left in the bassin, only water. If you see a clump of hardenned salt remove it from the bassin.
A. Once the salt has been consumed if the salt bassin looks dirty, you will need to clean the salt bassin. Put the softener on bypass. Disconnect the salt bassin polyethylene 3/8" tubing from the softener. Pale out the water and take the salt bassin outside for a good clean down. Pay attention to inside the float tube and belwo the salt grid, remove float and clean. If you have an air check ball and it looks red with iron, just dunk that part in a bowl with hot water and 2 tablespoons of Iron Out for about 30 minutes. Reconnect the bassin to the softener valve. Add 4-6 bags of softener salt. Add water to the bassin until the level reaches the bottom of the float when looking down into the float tube. Put the unit back into service via the bypass valve.
B. If the salt bassin is clean, most likely because your softener adds treated water to the bassin at the final fill cycle of a standard regeneration, then before you simply add salt to the bassin, start a regeneration. Wait until during the lengthy brine draw cycle the softener draws up enough water from the salt bassin that it will not overflow when filling ti with salt. Add 4-6 bags of softener salt. Let the remaining cycles finish on their own. You must not stop anywhere in this simple procedure, put the softener on bypass.
|The Avalanche Effect (AE) is a simple method of simulating what happens in a home that has had long term presence of iron water once exposed to a power failure. When the power comes back on in many cases clients will complain that the water comes out with a light to dark red color which is iron build up breaking up from the inside of the well pipe (G). So what we want to do is simulate the power failure as many times as required to bring the situation under control by forcibly cleaning out the well pipe (G), the pressure tank (C) and the main water valve and only afterward the home pipes (B).
If your well water contains iron in any quantity, eventually over the many years an accumulation of iron deposits will occur inside the pipes so this AE procedure is a good way of cleaning the pipe out especially before you do any type of well sterilisation. This will leave much less iron matter in the pipes that would interfere with the sterilisation process.
During the AE water needs to be evacuated from the pipes towards a suitable drain. There are three ways to discharge or drain the water.
1) If you have a sump pump, find a dedicated garden hose cut to a length enough to go from the garden hose valve (A) located on the pressure tank (C) and the sump pump plus three more feet just in case. Find a water pail white is better to see how the water is comming out. Find something low to sit on while you hold the hose directed into the sump pump. You can direct the hose into the water pail and let the water from the pail cascade itself into the sump pump. This will show you how the water is comming out.
2) If you do not have a sump pump run a garden hose from the garden hose valve (A) to the outside and into some area where you can drain that water without it staining everything. Find something heavy that will hold the outside hose end steady when the well pump is turned on. This is not the best way because the hose may be long and you lose some of the impact of the AE. Close the house valve (B) so that water only exits from the Drain Valve (A).
3) If you don't mind making a mess in the bath tub, sinks and toilets, you can use the house pipes one by one. Start by removing the strainer from all faucets. Close the cold water valve at the clothes washer and remove that cold water hose connection at the clothes washer end.
OK in all three methods please close the cold water valve at the hot water tank. Put any water treatment systems on bypass and remove any inline filter leaving the filter sump empty before screwing it back onto the filter head.
In all cases, then proceed as follows..... (Note this procedure is best accomplished with two people, one person at the house electrical breaker panel so as to toggle the well pump main breaker switch on and off when required and one person at the sump pump (see
1) or outside (see 2) or at the bath tub (see 3).
Let's get started.......
A) At this point the well pump is On and there is water pressure in the water pipes. Open the drain valve (A) sending wate rinto the sump or the outside garden hose valve or the colt water tap at the bathtub.
B) Switch OFF well pump electical breaker (breaker). You will see how the water comes out as the flow reduces to nothing.
C) Switch the breaker ON. If applicable make sure you have a good grip on the hose you are holding because it may want to pull away from you when the water starts flowing. See how the water comes out. If it is reddish color let the water flow until it clears up or within 2-3 minutes maximum whichever happens first.
D) Repeat B and C until at C the water always comes out clear for 3 repeats in a row.
E) For those using method 1 or 2, once the water is clear it is time to flush out the house pipes. Remove screens from all faucets and close all the hot and cold water taps.
F) Open the main house valve (B). Go to a sink and open the cold tap and see how the water comes out until it clears up. Then do the same for the hot water tap. Then repeat this at other sinks.
G) For more stubborn encrustations you may need to bleed the water from the house pipes then turn it on to let the water advance in the pipe while they were empty. Just switchthe breaker OFF. Open the taps until water stop flowing. Drain the water from the house using the Drain Valve (B) either into the sump or into a pail. Close Drain Valve (B). Close all but one or two cold water taps. Switch the breaker ON, See how the water come out the open taps until they clear up. Close those taps and repeat these with two other tap until all are flushed.
Note: In some cases depending on mineral content, well depth, pump placement, well make up and reserve, the water may not clear up as it was before within the 2-3 minute period but this does not matter because you just leave the water flowing until is does. In some instances it could take a few hours but eventually the water will return to its original clarity and from there the Avalanche Effect is successfully done.
You may need to repeat this procedure yearly or sooner if conditions warrant it. Specific things to look for in considering doing this procedure is if you do have on occasion bouts of red water and then everyting goes back to normal. This could be a sign that a major avalanche condition will happen and it is always best that you make it happen with water softener bypassed and filter removed and hot water tank closed then if it happens when everything is inline and set to be over-saturated with excess iron levels.
Congratulations you just accomplished your first Avalanche Effect and should be able to have red water free conditions for a good while.